The Author's now long-lamented Ebony camera in its natural environment

Equipment overview

I was given my first camera way back in about 1971. It was a little Box Brownie 127 camera and it's fair to say I've been hooked on photography ever since.

I bought my first really high quality camera in about 1979 - an Olympus OM1n. I went on to use the OM system, and Olympus compact range finder cameras, right up until 2001, testament both to the quality of the gear and to my liking of it. I've always believed that to get the best results, you need to be able to use your equipment without having to think about it. For me, it has always made sense to find something I liked, and then stick with it, rather than following fashion or buying the latest wonder camera.

When it became clear that Olympus were no longer supporting or developing the OM system I decided to find a replacement. I did this with the greatest reluctance and still believe the OM4ti to be one of the greatest cameras ever made. After trying Contax 35mm and Mamiya 645 cameras in the search for a 'one system does it all' solution, I concluded that my landscape work and nature pictures had such different requirements that the best solution was to invest in two totally different camera systems. For a while this led me to use a large format film camera for landscape work and an auto-focus digital SLR for nature and everything else.

Nearly all the nature pictures on this site were made using a Nikon D200 or D2xs. I've since upgraded to a D300 and a D700, both of which offer superior performance and are a good compromise between weight, cost and quality. I chose Nikon cameras (film initially) because I found the controls easier and more intuitive than Canon's and still see no reason to change. To photograph insects I use a dedicated macro lens, and prefer focal lengths of around 100 - 200mm. In early 2006 I purchased the then new Nikon 105mm f2.8 VR lens. With its anti-shake (VR) system, excellent optical performance and fast AFS focusing, this is a field insect photographer's dream lens. Good results can be readily obtained without the need for a tripod. For flowers I prefer a shorter focal length macro lens (Sigma 50mm f2.8) and, for general habitat shots, a 24-70 f2.8 zoom. For butterflies and dragonflies, I also frequently use a Nikon SB600 or SB800 flash, fired through a large Lumiquest diffuser, the flash normally underexposed by 1 - 2 stops.

The excellent resolution of these cameras, when combined with professional-grade lenses, means that images can be captured digitally that surpass the quality of traditional 35mm film. I particularly like them because they are easy to carry and allow me to capture fast moving subjects in rapidly changing light conditions - essential for the kind of work I do. The full frame versus cropped sensor debate is irrelevant for me and I find having both is often very useful. The apparent increase in focal length offered by the smaller sensor is a welcome bonus for nature work, while the quality and flexibility of the frame D700 is ideal for landscape photography. Having both means I can also get a wider range of apparent focal lengths from my lenses, providing additional flexibility in the field.

Most of the landscape pictures on this site were created using a camera that would have been familiar to the Victorians - a large format 5x4inch wooden ‘field’ camera made by Ebony. However, while my RSW45 may hsve looked old fashioned, it was extremely modern - the makers use materials such titanium to create a camera that is actually no larger or heavier than a professional SLR. This system is ideal for landscape photography, producing images of exceptional quality and allowing exceptional control over the image. I used lenses: 80mm, 110mm, 150mm and 200mm - equivalent to a focal length range of approximately 24mm - 80mm on a traditional 35mm film camera. All my pictures were taken using Fuji film, either Velvia 50 or 100. Sadly, the cost of running a sheet film camera has become almost prohibitive and with regret I now shoot all of my landscape digitally. However, the recent purchase of a Nikkor 24mm PC-E tilt/shift lens has given me back much of the control I used to enjoy with the LF camera.

To make the most of my camera's potential, I use a hand held spot meter and Lee filters (ND grads and polariser to control the exposure trying, wherever possible, to render the scene as I see or visualise it.